Michael Otaka, sommelier at Kóz Bistro, has been in the business for several decades. He has watched trends come and go time and again, yet he remains curious about what people are enjoying—both in food and in drink. Today, he shares the fruit of his observations.
What have you observed in terms of customers’ alcohol consumption in recent years?
It’s clear that people are drinking less alcohol. I recently read that per capita, alcohol consumption has declined in France, even though it’s one of the world’s great wine-producing countries! We’re seeing a similar trend in Italy as well, though it’s less pronounced. It’s quite impressive!
Non-alcoholic beers and mocktails are gaining in popularity, even in restaurants. Not long ago, it was hard to find non-alcoholic options, but now they’re everywhere.
Do you feel that people are more curious than before?
I would say that if they come to eat at Kóz Bistro, they are already curious! We are a restaurant built around discovery and novelty.
Personally, I strongly encourage them to try new products. For example, I feel they are more open than ever to trying macerated wine (orange wine), even if they don’t know what it is. That’s good for me, because it’s easy to pair with food!
What I want is for my wine and drinks menu to offer opportunities. For example, I think we offer a nice selection of wines by the glass so that guests can try something new.
How quickly are customs changing?
Usually, changes in the industry happen gradually. But the post-pandemic economy has shifted many things very quickly. Prices have gone up: dining out now costs more because chefs are better paid, and the ingredients are of higher quality—but also more expensive.
The real question is, are consumers willing to pay for this? And with the looming threat of a recession, we can’t ignore another reality: what’s the first expense people cut when budgets get tight? Eating out.
In your opinion, is alcohol consumption also linked to food trends? Do they evolve at the same time?
I believe so. In the past, French classics were the standard, both in terms of cuisine and beverages. Everywhere I’ve worked, whether in Europe or the United States, French cuisine has always been the foundation.
However, I also notice that there are a few different cultures that more anchored in their own culinary traditions, such as Switzerland, which is very conservative, and even Quebec! Twenty years ago, we weren’t as open to different cultures. But fast food chains like Amir and Sushi Shop have broadened our horizons and democratized certain dishes.
When you started out as a sommelier, what was the place of Quebec wine on drink menus? And now? And now?
At the time, Quebec wine was a challenge—we didn’t fully understand it. Today, things have changed: we now have some excellent wines. Take Pinard et Filles, for example. Their wines are so popular that people line up to get them. Of course, not everyone can do that.
That said, we’re making some outstanding sparkling wines, products that can easily stand alongside those from anywhere else. What really helps is the SAQ’s involvement with events that highlight local products, such as the Fête des Vendanges (grape harvest festival) in Magog.
Of course, we still have a long way to go before we can compete with the great wine-producing countries.
Kóz offers a Mediterranean-inspired menu of food and drink. In your opinion, is this a timeless diet, immune to trends? Has Mediterranean cuisine evolved over time?
Like all the world’s great cuisines, it is bound to evolve and is not immune to change. There will always be chefs who revisit the classics and explore them from new angles. Sometimes we realize we’ve gone too far—like molecular cuisine!—and we circle back to the classics. But there will always be those who push the boundaries, introducing new flavours and fresh perspectives.
If this interview has whetted your appetite, come and enjoy a clever mix of Mediterranean classics revisited in a modern and gourmet way by the team at Kóz Bistro. Reserve your table right here.
And above all, when you come, don’t forget to ask Michael to introduce you to a delicious new vintage!
